Leather can seem complicated when you're starting out. At Phoenix Leather Hides, we believe makers should understand exactly what they are buying so they can choose the right leather for their projects.

 

This guide explains the basics of leather types, thickness, and how to select the right hide so you can get the best results from your work.

​

What Is a Leather Side vs. a Hide?

When purchasing leather, you will often see it sold either as a full hide or as a side. These terms refer to how the leather has been cut and prepared after tanning.

Full Hide

A full hide is the entire skin of the animal after it has been tanned and processed. Depending on the animal and the tannery, hides can be quite large and heavy. Because of their size, full hides are often used in industrial settings or large manufacturing operations where maximum cutting yield is needed.

Leather Side

A leather side is exactly what it sounds like — one half of a full hide that has been split down the backbone. Each side typically contains one shoulder, the belly area, and part of the hind section of the animal.

Most leather suppliers, including Phoenix Leather Hides, sell leather as individual sides because they are easier to handle, ship, and store. For small shops, hobbyists, and growing leather brands, buying leather by the side provides a practical balance of material size and cost.

Typical leather sides range from 18 to 25 square feet, depending on the animal and tannery.

For many makers, purchasing leather sides also allows greater flexibility when experimenting with different types, colors, and finishes without committing to very large quantities.

 

How Many Square Feet Are in a Leather Side?

Leather is typically sold by the square foot, and each side will have a unique size depending on the animal and how the hide was cut.

Most leather sides range between:

18 – 25 square feet

However, this can vary slightly based on the tanning process and the original size of the hide.

​

Why Leather Is Measured in Square Feet

Unlike fabric, leather hides are not perfectly rectangular. Each hide has a natural shape, with areas such as the belly, shoulder, and back varying slightly in thickness and firmness. Because of this irregular shape, leather is measured using specialized equipment that calculates the total usable surface area.

​

Understanding Yield When Cutting Projects

When planning leather projects, it's helpful to remember that not every part of a hide behaves the same way. The back and shoulder areas tend to be the firmest and most consistent sections, making them ideal for structured goods like belts, wallets, and straps.

The belly sections are often more flexible and may stretch slightly, which can make them better suited for softer goods or smaller components.

Because of these natural variations, many leather makers learn to cut strategically from different parts of the side to get the best results for each project.

​

Why Makers Buy Leather by the Side

Buying leather by the side offers several advantages for independent makers and small shops:

✔ Manageable size for cutting and storage
✔ Lower upfront cost compared to full hides
✔ Ability to experiment with different leather types
✔ Easier shipping and handling

For many leathercraft businesses, buying leather sides provides the flexibility to scale production without the large volume commitments often required when purchasing directly from tanneries.

 

Understanding Leather Types

​

Vegetable Tanned Leather-Vegetable tanned leather is tanned using natural tannins from tree bark and plant materials. It is firm, durable, and ages beautifully over time. Veg tan is commonly used for tooling, carving, belts, holsters, and structured leather goods.

 

Chrome Tanned Leather- Chrome tanning produces softer, more flexible leather. It is commonly used for bags, upholstery, and garments. Chrome tanned leather is also more resistant to water and staining than vegetable tanned leather.

 

Oil Tanned Leather- Oil tanned leather is infused with oils during the tanning process, giving it a rugged appearance and excellent durability. It is often used for boots, outdoor gear, and heavy-duty leather goods.

 

What Is Waxed Pull-Up Leather?

 

Waxed pull-up leather is known for its rich color variation and vintage character. When the leather is bent or stretched, the oils and waxes inside the hide move, creating lighter tones in the leather.

 

This natural movement creates the unique look that pull-up leather is known for. Over time it develops a beautiful patina, making every finished product one of a kind.

 

Understanding Leather Thickness

 

Leather thickness is measured in ounces. One ounce equals approximately 1/64 of an inch.

 

Common thickness ranges include:

 

2–3 oz – Thin leather used for linings and small accessories

3–4 oz – Ideal for wallets, card holders, and small goods

5–6 oz – Good for bags, straps, and medium-weight goods

7–9 oz – Heavy leather used for belts and rugged gear

 

Choosing the correct thickness helps ensure your finished product performs the way it should.

 

Natural Marks in Leather

 

Leather is a natural material, and every hide reflects the life of the animal. It is normal to see markings such as wrinkles, healed scratches, brand marks, or insect bites.

 

These are not defects. They are part of what makes genuine leather unique and authentic.

 

Choosing the Right Leather for Your Project

 

Different projects require different types of leather.

 

Wallets and small goods typically work well with 3–4 oz leather that has some flexibility.

 

Bags and larger goods often use 4–6 oz leather for added strength.

 

Belts and heavy-duty items are commonly made with 7–9 oz vegetable tanned leather for durability and structure.

 

Selecting the right leather for your project will make your build easier and improve the final result.

 

Understanding the Layers of Leather

​

When animal hides are processed at the tannery, they can be split into different layers depending on thickness and intended use. These layers determine the strength, durability, and character of the finished leather. Understanding the difference between these layers helps makers choose the right leather for their projects.

​

Full Grain Leather

Full grain leather is the highest quality layer of the hide. It includes the entire top surface of the leather, with the natural grain intact. Because it has not been sanded or corrected, full grain leather retains the natural strength and fiber structure of the hide.

Full grain leather is valued for its durability, breathability, and ability to develop a rich patina over time as it is used. Natural markings such as scars or grain variation may be visible, which many makers consider part of the character of premium leather.

Common uses include:

• Wallets

• Belts

• Bags

• Saddlery

• High-end leather goods

​

Top Grain Leather

Top grain leather comes from the same top portion of the hide as full grain leather, but the surface has been lightly sanded or corrected to remove imperfections. This process creates a more uniform appearance while still maintaining good strength and flexibility.

Because the surface is refined, top grain leather tends to have a smoother and more consistent finish than full grain leather, though it may not develop the same depth of patina over time.

Common uses include:

• Handbags

• Upholstery

• Fashion leather goods

• ​

Split Leather

After the top layer of the hide is removed, the remaining lower portion is called split leather. While it still comes from real hide, it does not contain the dense grain structure that gives full grain and top grain leather their strength.

Split leather is often finished with coatings, embossing, or suede treatments to improve its appearance and usability.

Common uses include:

• Suede leather

• Lining materials

• Lower-cost leather goods

• ​

Bonded Leather

Bonded leather is not a natural layer of the hide. Instead, it is made by combining leather fibers and scraps with adhesives and bonding them together to form a sheet-like material.

Because it contains only a small percentage of real leather fibers, bonded leather does not have the durability or aging characteristics of full grain or top grain leather.

It is commonly used in:

• Furniture upholstery

• Budget leather products

• ​

Choosing the Right Leather

For most leathercraft and maker projects, full grain leather is considered the gold standard because of its strength, durability, and ability to age beautifully. Top grain leather can also be an excellent choice when a smoother and more consistent surface is desired.

Understanding these layers helps makers select the right material depending on the project, finish, and performance required.

Quality Leather for Makers

 

Phoenix Leather Hides is proud to supply high-quality leather to craftsmen, hobbyists, and professional makers across the United States.

 

Whether you're building your first wallet or producing goods for sale, choosing quality leather is the foundation of every great leather project.