LEATHER 101
A Guide for Makers
Leather can seem complicated when you're starting out. At Phoenix Leather Hides, we believe makers should understand exactly what they are buying so they can choose the right leather for their projects.
This guide explains the basics of leather types, thickness, and how to select the right hide so you can get the best results from your work.
Understanding Leather Types
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Vegetable Tanned Leather-Vegetable tanned leather is tanned using natural tannins from tree bark and plant materials. It is firm, durable, and ages beautifully over time. Veg tan is commonly used for tooling, carving, belts, holsters, and structured leather goods.
Chrome Tanned Leather- Chrome tanning produces softer, more flexible leather. It is commonly used for bags, upholstery, and garments. Chrome tanned leather is also more resistant to water and staining than vegetable tanned leather.
Oil Tanned Leather- Oil tanned leather is infused with oils during the tanning process, giving it a rugged appearance and excellent durability. It is often used for boots, outdoor gear, and heavy-duty leather goods.
What Is Waxed Pull-Up Leather?
Waxed pull-up leather is known for its rich color variation and vintage character. When the leather is bent or stretched, the oils and waxes inside the hide move, creating lighter tones in the leather.
This natural movement creates the unique look that pull-up leather is known for. Over time it develops a beautiful patina, making every finished product one of a kind.
Understanding Leather Thickness
Leather thickness is measured in ounces. One ounce equals approximately 1/64 of an inch.
Common thickness ranges include:
2–3 oz – Thin leather used for linings and small accessories
3–4 oz – Ideal for wallets, card holders, and small goods
5–6 oz – Good for bags, straps, and medium-weight goods
7–9 oz – Heavy leather used for belts and rugged gear
Choosing the correct thickness helps ensure your finished product performs the way it should.
Natural Marks in Leather
Leather is a natural material, and every hide reflects the life of the animal. It is normal to see markings such as wrinkles, healed scratches, brand marks, or insect bites.
These are not defects. They are part of what makes genuine leather unique and authentic.
Choosing the Right Leather for Your Project
Different projects require different types of leather.
Wallets and small goods typically work well with 3–4 oz leather that has some flexibility.
Bags and larger goods often use 4–6 oz leather for added strength.
Belts and heavy-duty items are commonly made with 7–9 oz vegetable tanned leather for durability and structure.
Selecting the right leather for your project will make your build easier and improve the final result.
Why Many Makers Buy Full Sides
Buying full sides of leather allows makers to maximize material usage and reduce cost per project. It also allows for better pattern placement and more consistent color across finished pieces.
For makers producing multiple items, buying full sides is often the most economical option.
Quality Leather for Makers
Phoenix Leather Hides is proud to supply high-quality leather to craftsmen, hobbyists, and professional makers across the United States.
Whether you're building your first wallet or producing goods for sale, choosing quality leather is the foundation of every great leather project.